An Intro to Cilantro
LIGHT, BUT NOT HEAT
Regular cilantro is not well-suited to Pohnpei's hot, wet climate. Though the plant needs lots of light (at least 4 hours a day), it hates heat. Lots of heat makes the plants stop growing and go to seed--not good if the whole purpose of growing is get leaves for lots of yummy salsa and Mexican food. So it needs to be shaded in the hottest parts of the afternoon, especially when young.
RICH, BALANCED SOIL
Cilantro likes good, balanced soil with plenty of compost and manure. It does not tolerate transplantation well, so seeds should be sown in their final resting place.
MOIST, BUT NOT WET
Plants need regular water when young; the soil should be moist but not wet. Watering should be done at the base of the plant as much as possible. However, on extremely hot days, you can cool the plants down my misting their leaves with ice water. As the plant gets older, it needs less water.
You can start harvesting leaves when the plants are a few inches tall. Removing any flowering spikes that develop will prevent bolting and encourage leaf growth. It's useful to understand how the plant develops. Branches will start forming just above the cotyledons as the true leaf stems lengthen. This means that the weight of all the branches and leaves will be born by the single stem. If you have good, consistent light without the heat, then your stem might come out stocky and strong. If not, the stems will be tall and weak and the plants will likely fall over if you don't do something drastic.
DAY 1 - SOWING
Not realizing cilantro hates transplantation, I planted my seeds in several paper egg cups filled with garden soil. Oops. What I should have done is directly seeded the pots where I planned to grow my cilantro plants.DAY 7 - GERMINATION
My cilantro seeds began to sprout up early in the morning one week after I put them in soil. Some seedlings were a half-inch tall by evening (below).
DAY 9 - TRANSPLANTATION
If you do things right, you won't have this step in your process. Cilantro has fragile roots and the seedlings are delicate. If you try to transplant, most won't survive. I didn't know all this until after I seeded. Since I'd screwed up, I experimented with two batches of seedlings.For Batch 1, I pricked out the individual seedlings as I would have with any other plant. They were planted a couple of inches apart in a large pot. If you do this, plant the seedlings deep with the cotyledons immediately above the soil.
For Batch 2, I cut out the bottoms of each paper seed cup and planted them right in the soil (left) without disturbing the roots of the seedlings. The assumption was that this would stress the plants less and the roots would simply push through the damp paper when they were ready. Note how leggy my seedlings are. This is not a good thing. It means they aren't getting enough sun and are stretching to reach the light, making them spindly and weak.
SOIL PREPARATION & PLANTING:
- I put the cilantro in two pots--one about 2 gallons and the other about a 1/2 gallon. Again, experimentation is the game.
- As with all my pots, I started with a 1-inch layer of coarse basalt gravel.
- I added a layer of steer manure.
- I filled the rest of the space with a mixture of 25% local soil, 25% store-bought garden soil, and 50% Miracle Grow Potting Mix.
DAY 15 - TRUE LEAVES
The first true leaves are opening on most of the plants by the end of the second week. The seedlings that were planted while still in their egg cups, are much taller, but those planted singly are stronger and have much greater leaf development, some already with fully open leaves.
DAY 16
All plants have fully open true leaves (right). It's starting to look like the pricked out plants are actually doing better. They are shorter and more able to carry the weight of their leaves and branches.DAY 17
While the pricked out seedlings are doing okay, the ones planted in their cups have become so leggy that they were falling over--unable to support the weight of their leaves. I rigged up some sticks to give the plants a little more support. I also thinned out some of the smaller plants. I think the problem of legginess has to do with the buried egg cups preventing the roots of the seedlings from getting down deeper into the soil, where they could better support the plant. Remember--don't do what I did with either batch. Seed your pots directly to avoid all this transplantation nonsense.DAY 24
The pricked out cilantro continues to look healthy, but growth has slowed to a crawl. The egg cup cilantro is increasingly thin and tall and continues to topple over (above). Not good. I was worried that the sun here was too intense. Cilantro needs lots of sun, but doesn't like heat. Unfortunately, heat and sun go together near the equator.
DAY 26
All plants have hit a plateau. They aren't growing any thicker or taller, though they do seem to be putting out leaves. If they stay out too long in direct sunlight, they wilt, which probably means they have poorly developed, shallow roots. It is possible I also over-watered them and caused dampening off--a root fungus.DAY 28
I trimmed off the tallest parts of all the plants to force them to put more energy into the thickness of their stems.ROUND 2: LET'S TRY THIS AGAIN . . .
DAY 1
I bought a few packets of cilantro seeds at Pohnpei Ace Hardware and thickly reseeded both of my pots, leaving the original plants where they were. I also fertilized both pots with Alaska Fish Emulsion.DAY 7
The second seeding has begun to germinate in one of the two pots.DAY 12
Both pots are full of seedlings now and they are close enough together that they are helping to support each other as well as the more mature plants. For this reason, I'm not thinning anything out. Also, I very carefully added soil around all the seedlings and more established plants, so that now their stems are mostly underground. This is helping them stay upright. The older plants have lots of branches and leaves now, but everything is still pretty stunted--probably because of how hot it is here. |
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DAY 17
Finally, things are better. I wouldn't say my cilantro is thriving, but it's plugging along. It's no longer falling over and looking like it's about to die out. I won't get a huge harvest, but I'll have a little. No sign of bolting so far, which is good (and surprising). Adding dirt really helped the stability of the plants. The older ones have a lot of leaf and branch growth. |
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DAY 31
We've had six straight days here in Kolonia with not even a peep of sun. For most of my plants, that's not wonderful, but it has given me an opportunity to see how the cilantro would do in cooler, overcast weather. And the answer to that is--amazingly! My cilantro seems to love a cloudy, sunless Pohnpei. In a week, the whole character of these plants has changed. They are almost as tall and bushy as the parsley (below right: cilantro in background and foreground and parsley in the middle), which has done great from the very beginning. Not thinning the seedlings has proved to be hugely beneficial. My plants support each other now, no longer falling over. Adding soil around the stems also added to this new success. Both my pots are thick and full and luscious. I have plenty of leaves now to make a batch of salsa without chopping everything to the ground. |
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DAY 44
After a combined 72 days of growth, one botched run and several disastrous mistakes, I think I can finally say that the cilantro has been a success and the plant can be ticked off the list. Two batches of delicious salsa so far isn't too bad and my big pot is still doing well (though, I did kill off the smaller one by accident).SO . . .
Can cilantro be grown on Pohnpei?
Yes, it can.
Can it do well enough to be of use?
Yes, it can.
Will it thrive?
Not likely, but it will do fine if given the proper care.
I'll continue to post notes as long as I keep growing the plants. So far, I haven't had any problems with bolting, the plants have stayed fairly small but produced plenty of foliage, and I'm able to do a nice harvest about every two weeks.
Here's what they look like as of today (below).
And here's what the salsa looked like (below). Mmmmm....
Seeds are very slow to germinate. It can take 21-28 days. But if you read on, you'll see that mine took only 8 days! Maybe it's that Pohnpei sun.
As with the other herb seeds, I used Ferry-Morse Start Smart seeds from Home Depot in Southern California ($1.59), which I purchased in late January (they vary the seed sub-species by season). I have to admit I wasn't super hopeful about these. Everything I read said that parsley is tricky to grow from seed and that it often just doesn't germinate. The package said germination time was 21-28 days, so I was expecting to wait at least a month.
DAYS 2-7
Okay. So I got impatient and probably jumped the gun on the transplantation. I had prepared my pot and was anxious to get the little guys in there. Now, everything I've read since seeding says that parsley, like cilantro, doesn't transplant well. The stress of separating out each seedling, as you do with most of the other herbs, is usually too much for the parsley to handle. I figured I would just cut each of the egg cups apart and plant them, since the paper would break down pretty fast and the roots would just push through it when the plants got bigger. Problem is, the soil was a little crumbly, maybe a little on the dry side, and when I tried to cut up my egg container, things got ugly. In the end, I lost some of my already sparse seedlings. I got about 4-5 nice clumps in the pot, though (below left). 
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